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		<title>KHS on Factory Direct Infrared Heaters</title>
		<link>http://ir-heater-direct.com/en/tags/khs/</link>
		<description>Recent content in KHS on Factory Direct Infrared Heaters</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2026 14:27:33 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Replacement lamp for KHS blow molder</title>
				<link>http://ir-heater-direct.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-khs-blow-molder/</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2026 14:27:33 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ir-heater-direct.com/images/5794ff7eeb8a3f385a2f2c8c2d2ea62b.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for KHS blow molder&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-the-heat-right-sidel-matrix-lamps&#34;&gt;Getting the Heat Right: Sidel Matrix Lamps&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you&amp;rsquo;ve ever tried to swap out a Sidel Matrix lamp, you know that hitting a &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;wattage&lt;/a&gt; number on a spec sheet isn&amp;rsquo;t the whole story. It’s not just about &amp;ldquo;power.&amp;rdquo; It’s about how that heat actually hits the plastic.&#xA;To get it right, you need the spectral output and heat density to be spot-on across the entire length of the tube. That&amp;rsquo;s why we built our replacements to be true drop-ins. Your machine expects a specific temperature profile, and that&amp;rsquo;s exactly what we give it.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The tricky part of the heat curve&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here is the thing: if your wattage is off by even 5%, you&amp;rsquo;re in trouble. You&amp;rsquo;ll either end up with stress marks because the preform didn&amp;rsquo;t get hot enough, or you&amp;rsquo;ll see that annoying pearlescence in the PET from overheating.&#xA;We obsess over the resistance of the tungsten filament. Why? Because we want the power draw to be identical to the original. It keeps your controllers happy and prevents them from &amp;ldquo;hunting&amp;rdquo; for a set point or throwing random errors that shut down your line.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Quartz and the nitty-gritty&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Cheap lamps usually fail because the filament thins out too fast. We fixed that by &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;tuning&lt;/a&gt; the internal halogen cycle. We also use heavy-wall quartz, which can take the punch of rapid heating and cooling cycles &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;without&lt;/a&gt; cracking.&#xA;Plus, we matched the reflector interface and the end-cap footprint. You just wire them up. No hacking the housing, no &amp;ldquo;making it fit.&amp;rdquo; It just works.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;A quick heads-up on the real world&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;These high-density infrared lamps put out a massive amount of heat. Most of it goes into the preform, but some of it inevitably leaks into the oven chassis.&#xA;Since our lamps match the OEM output, your cooling blowers need to be on their game. If your vents are clogged with dust, that trapped heat can warp your reflectors or kill the lamps early. Keep them clean, and you&amp;rsquo;re golden.&#xA;The best part? You don&amp;rsquo;t have to spend hours rewriting your heating profiles. Just swap the lamps, run one test bottle to make sure everything looks crisp, and get back to making money.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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